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Okinawa Maps

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Battle of Okinawa Images

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Tsuboya is a district in Naha, Okinawa famed for its collection of potters. Homo sapiens on Okinawa first began using vessels made of earthen materials more than 6,600 years ago. The creation of such vessels changed tremendously, however, when the island began trade with China and Kyushu (the southern portion of mainland Japan) during the 12th century. Okinawa’s trade levels reached new highs in the 16th century (trading with nations as far away as Korea, Vietnam, and Thailand), so local artisans took up the craft of pottery both to supply local markets and to export. Thus, kilns began to appear across the island.

In 1682, the Ryukyu royal government issued a decree that Okinawa Honto’s three pottery districts (Wakuta, Takaraguchi, and Chibana) be consolidated to better provide for the demand of the citizenry and of foreign merchants. In addition items such as bowls, pots, and bottles, crafters also produced large numbers of roof tiles (aka-gawara). The royal government named the area Tsuboya (from tsubo, meaning “pot,” and ya, meaning “specialists”) and presided over the administration of its kilns. During this heyday of yachimun (pottery) production, two types of pottery emerged: joyachi (glazed pottery) and arayachi (unglazed pottery).

After Okinawa came under Japanese control during the Meiji era, porcelain imports from mainland Japan increased exponentially. Because it was sturdier and less expensive, porcelain became more popular and prevalent on Okinawa and the native pottery, and joyachi and arayachi sales declined.

Still, craftsmen continued to take pride in the traditions of production, and the craft survived. As World War II approached and Japanese soldiers began to take over and fortify the island for the upcoming Battle of Okinawa, the Japanese military requisitioned craftsmen to make thousands of bowls, saucers, and battery covers for its troops. The artisans complied, and though much of their work and most of the kilns were destroyed during the war, they returned to their craft during Occupation to make the everyday utensils and items needed for the populace. This return of local goods after the war not only helped the Okinawan population recover by providing much-needed material goods, but also helped it retain its cultural identity and begin the slow process of social and emotional healing.

Several decades after the war, as Naha’s population density increased, some citizens began to protest their annoyance with the large quantities of smoke being belched into the city’s air by the kilns. So, many of the potters moved to Yomitan and built cooperative kilns. But others, whose studios and shops in Tsuboya had been passed down from generation to generation, remained and installed electric kilns that didn’t produce smoky pollutants.

Two of the old kilns are still standing in Tsuboya: Feinu Kama (used to bake arayachi) and Agarinu Kuma (used to bake joyachi). Both were constructed during the 17th century. Today, Tsuboya’s pottery trade centers around Yachimun-dori (Pottery Street), a small street located behind the Heiwadori in Naha. Here, potters have shops filled with beautiful wares that range from small cups and saucers to monstrous shisa. Each spring, a festival is held in Tsuboya to showcase the pottery trade, offer visitors the chance to try their hand at crafting pieces, and encourage guests to purchase pieces. (Vendors discount their wares by as much as 20 percent.)

The Tsuboya Pottery Museum does an excellent job of chronicling the evolution of yachimun and the district’s historic involvement in its production. It is located on Yachimun-dori (near where it intersects with Heiwadori, on the left) and charges a small admission fee. To get to Yachimun-dori, head south on Highway 58 from Camp Foster. Upon reaching Naha, follow the signs to Kokusai Street and park in one of the parking lots in the area. Proceed to the Heiwadori, whose entrance is located across from Mitsukoshi Department Store. Follow the Heiwadori all the way to the back (stay to the left when the Heiwadori splits into two paths) until it ends. This is Yachimun-dori.

Tsuboya Photos

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The ruins of Nakijin Castle are located on the Motobu Peninsula in the northern part of Okinawa, Japan. The castle was built in the 13th century during the Sanzan, or three kingdoms, period. During this time, the island of Okinawa was divided into northern, central, and southern kingdoms, each of which was controlled by a different ruler. Nakijin Castle was the seat of the northern kingdom (known as Hokuzan) until the three kingdoms were unified by Sho Hashi in 1429.

Today, only ruins of the castle remain. Standing at an elevation of 100 meters, the nine walls are comprised of large pieces of limestone and range in height from three to eight meters. The main gate was located on the western face of the castle, and after entering it, visitors passed through the Heiro Gate into a second enclosure that served as the castle's headquarters. On both sides were the umiya gardens. Stone pavements carved from bedrock surrounded the castle, and today visitors can walk along them as they follow the Hanta Trail to shrines located just north of the ruins. Excavations at the castle have yielded many objects (including pottery and utensils) that are proof of Okinawa's early trade with China. Several of these artifacts are on display in the Nakijin Village History & Culture Center, which lies just west of the ruins.

In 2000, the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization named the ruins of Nakijin Castle a World Heritage Site. Thousands of visitors flock to the ruins each year and range from Okinawan school children learning about the island’s history to Americans seeking out Okinawa's beautiful vistas.

Visitors can access the ruins by traveling north on Highway 58 or the Expressway toward Nago City. Once in Nago City, turn right onto Highway 72. Follow the road to Nakijin Village, then turn left onto Highway 505. Continue for several kilometers, following the signs until reaching the ruins. At the site, volunteer tour guides are available. Admission to the ruins is ¥150 for adults, ¥100 for high school students, and ¥50 for elementary and junior high students.

Nakijin Castle Photos

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The ruins of Zakimi Gusuku (Zakimi Castle) are located in Yomitan Village, in the central portion of Okinawa. Built during the era leading up to the consolidation of the three kingdoms of Ryukyu, the castle sat in an optimal location, perched some 125 meters (425 feet) above sea level, with views of Onna and Motobu to the north, the territory of the Chuzan (Central Kingdom) to the east and south, and the Kerama Islands to the west.

Construction of the castle began in 1416 and lasted until 1422. The owner, Gosamaru, had previously lived at Yamada Gusuku, a castle above five miles to the northeast, closer to the warring lords of Hokuzan (Northern Kingdom), who were trying to build a territory to rival Chuzan. Legend states that when Gosamaru was ordered to move to Zakimi to keep an eye on Hokuzan, he had the stones of Yamada Castle moved one by one to Zakimi. Historians also believe that Zakimi Gusuku was originally known as Yuntanza Castle, as Gosamaru was the aji (warlord) of the Yuntanza region.

As the stones were moved from off-site locations (Yamada Castle or otherwise), construction demanded a large team, and Gosamaru gathered his collective of artisans, masons, and laborers from the nearby area, as well as outer islands such as Yoron and the Keramas.

Zakimi Castle’s foundation was formed atop compacted earth, whereas most of the island’s other castles were built on bases of limestone. The main portion of the castle sat inside two stone walls made of limestone blocks. These blocks utilized masonry techniques (specifically, the mortar-less nuno-zumi and aikata-zumi methods) that were ahead of those being used in mainland Japan at the time. These same techniques can be seen at Nakagusuku Castle, Gosamaru’s next residence. Each of the two main walls features an arched gate that utilized keystones; these are thought to be the oldest such gates in the Ryukyu Islands.

During World War II, Japanese forces recognized the castle’s superior defensive position and used it to counter the American forces landing nearby. The 500-year-old (at the time) walls provided superior cover for their gun emplacement. After the war, American forces used Zakimi Castle as a radar station, though this operation was eventually removed from the site and rebuilt within the Sobe Communication Site (a giant, circular antenna better known as the “Elephant Cage,” which was dismantled in 2007 but can be seen in one of the photos on this site) and Torii Station. Over time, and with such unintended use, the walls began to deteriorate. However, they were reconstructed, and the site was designated a National Treasure and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Archaeologists have excavated the area in and around Zakimi Castle and found a great deal of Chinese porcelain, evidence of the Ryukyu Kingdom’s trade with China. A plethora of other items have also been excavated, some of which are showcased in the Yomitan Village History and Folklore Museum, located at the base of the castle site, near the information booth.

The best times to visit Zakimi Castle are at sunrise, on any clear day, and during cherry blossom season. To reach Zakimi Castle, exit Camp Foster’s Kitamae (Commissary) Gate, and turn right. Continue north on Highway 58, passing Kadena Air Base and Kadena Circle. After passing the circle, turn left onto Route 12 and follow the signs to Zakimi Castle. Visitor guides are available at the information booth.

Zakimi Castle Photos

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The Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters (JNU) was the headquarters command post for Rear Admiral Minaru Ota of the Japanese Navy. Initially, Ota had a 10,000-man strong naval force on Okinawa, most of which were supply personnel and maintenance technicians. Of the 10,000 forces on Okinawa, about 250 were trained in ground warfare, and most of that 250 was an 81mm mortar platoon. Additionally, about 1,500 of the 10,000 forces were Okinawan conscripts. Note that these forces were not part of the Japanese Navy's Naval Landing Force, which was the well-trained and efficient ground fighting arm of the Imperial Navy. The only presence of the Naval Landing Force was Rear Admiral Ota.

Ota had a distinguished career, and prior to his assignment to Okinawa, had held several Naval Landing Force commands during his career. He had been present in Nanking prior to the Rape of Nanking, but when the Rape began, he pulled his forces out, saying that they were better than the atrocities being committed, and that he wanted no part of the actions. This made him one of the few offers present in Nanking that had nothing to do with the war crimes committed there.

Transferring Ota to Okinawa was smart move on the part of the Imperial Navy commanders. In his prior service, Ota had also been a gun school instructor, and when he came to the island, he brought a staff culled from Naval Landing Forces commands. Thus, he was well placed to employ a land-based force.

The Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters was dug into a hillside on the southern portion of the island. It took 1,000 people four months to dig. Photos in the JNU museum show naval base forces digging it, but in actuality, Okinawan civilians did most of the labor. In fact, Ota was one of the few Japanese officers to save positive things about the Okinawans. He asked mainland Japan for future consideration of the Okinawan people in light of all the hardships they endured during the Battle of Okinawa.

Prior to the attack on the JNU, approximately half of Ota's forces were used in the counterassault at Hacksaw Ridge, and the remaining 5,000 were ordered around May 22 to pull down to Cape Kyan around May 22. The problem was that the orders said to fall back on May 28, and Ota misread them and fell back on the 26th. Many of the group's supplies and equipment were destroyed, and when they reached the southern portion of the island, they found nothing good to defend. So, Ota recruited a corps of 2,000 volunteers and returned to the Naval Underground. On their way, they picked up about 500 stragglers from the Japanese Army.

The group faced many problems when they returned to the Headquarters. Firstly, they lacked weapons. Many of the men didn't have rifles, so the rifle-bayonet combinations were split between men. Some men were armed with little more than bayonets tied to sticks or rudimentary spears, while others had rifles or shore guns and aircraft cannons adapted for ground fighting. These were the weapons with which they defended the Headquarters against the Sixth Marine Division.

Because Army tactics would not favor an amphibious assault, Ota expected the American forces to invade from the east. To back up his assertion, he had reports of the First Marine Divisions moving in to the south. Their objective was to cut off the peninsula and isolate it from the rest of Okinawa Honto.

The Sixth Marine Division came ashore in the area of present-day Naha Airport. But the problem was that the amtracks floundered in the port. After being constant used to run supplies, they broke down. Nevertheless, the 4th Regiment led the way to the JNU and was backed up by the 29th. Working to the south and west, they anticipated taking the objective by June 7. (This would be the final objective for the 10th Army.) Ota shifted his defenses to meet the attack. On June 9, the 27th Marine Regiment came toward the JNU from the west, making the attack two-pronged. Ota was outflanked and had only 2,500 men.

Of the forces at the JNU, 158 were captured, marking the first large group of prisoners apprehended during the Battle of Okinawa. Some awoke in the hospital and tried to commit suicide, with some attempting to bite off or chew off their own tongues. Roughly 80 of these forces survived and left the peninsula.

Many accounts say that the first American to enter the Japanese Naval Underground was a Marine colonel. Others say that the first man in was PFC Tom McKinney. On duty to find the JNU, McKinney was sitting on the side of the hill with rank charts when he saw a bush move. He pulled the bush out of the ground and found an airshaft. Through a wooden pipe, with a rope around his waist and a flashlight in hand, he descended headfirst into the tunnel. Accounts of McKinney volunteering for this duty are inaccurate. "Volunteer, hell, I didn't volunteer. I was voluntold," McKinney recounted to Chris Majewski upon returning to Okinawa in the 1990s. At the bottom of the tunnel and to the right was a passageway with a blanket over it. As McKinney began to search, a second Marine came down feet first. More than 160 men were found in the cave, and American forces estimated that they had been dead for about three days. McKinney and his fellow Marines searched cave, contacted their company, and contacted Intel, which took about two days to arrive on the scene and showed up in clean jeeps and with clean Thompson submachine guns. Upon further exploration, the Americans found Ota and his staff, but no paperwork. Intel blew the whole cave shut from the outside.

The cave system was opened as a museum in 1970. Critics counter that the site was poorly excavated and that the museum doesn't tell an accurate story. When the caves were opened, only about 70 percent of the caves were excavated, and crews didn't research what they were removing. They were simply excavating.

Additionally, the Medical Room is mislabeled. McKinney described the Medical Room as having a 55-gallon drum to the right, with tables knocked over and bottles littering the floor. Those items are still there, but are under three feet of dirt. Furthermore, the inappropriately "Medical Room" is too small for any beds. Critics assert that museum officials labeled the room as the Medical Room because wounded were found there. The real Medical Room is near the back of the JNU. The drum McKinney described is still there.

Perhaps the most controversial of displays is the room in which visitors can see blast marks on the wall. Some contend that these "blast marks" (supposedly from a member of the Imperial forces at the JNU committing seppuku with a grenade) are fake, as they don't match the blast pattern of a Japanese grenade, and there are too many dead spaces (especially above) where there are no marks. Many of the troop counts given on museum displays are inaccurate as well.

Many of the JNU's artifacts are still in the caves. About 65-70 percent of the tunnels have been excavated. The floors in the portion visitors see have been converted to concrete, and the walls have been re-surfaced. Some assert that the hallow room next to the room with blast marks might contain the missing intelligence records that American forces never found before blowing the caves closed.

Despite the criticism, the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters is a good learning site. It allows visitors to see the caves without getting dirty or facing any of the dangers inherent in exploring such World War II caves. Without it, there would be no way for most people on Okinawa to understand some of the conditions of the battle.

To reach the Japanese Naval Underground Headquarters, head south on Highway 58 from Camp Foster. After passing over Meiji Bridge (just before the airport exit), Highway 58 becomes Highway 331. Just after the Banyan Tree Restaurant and the park, turn left on Highway 7. Follow the signs for the Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters. Parking is available in two lots.

The land skirmish of the Battle of Okinawa began on March 26, 1945 and lasted for about 87 days. The Americans first touched the shore of the Kerama Island, 24 kilometers west of Okinawa. Fierce fighting raged on Geruma, Aka, Zamami and Tokashiki Islands before the Kerama group was secured over the next five days. In these preliminary operations, the American 77th Infantry Division suffered 31 dead and 81 wounded, while Japanese dead and captured numbered over 650. Terrified and driven to desperation by the onslaught and the furious shelling, some islanders killed themselves, cutting off the heads of their children with sickles and hitting their wives with stones in the gruesome scenes of mass suicide.

These beautiful islands where once the terrible tragedy of mass suicide unfolded are now part of the Okinawa Seashore National Park. 22 large and small islands in the Kerama group make up the villages of Zamami and Tokashiki. Kerama Island is a group of subtropical islands and islets, located about 40 kilometers southwest from the main Island. The idyllic paradise of Kerama Islands remains largely undiscovered even though they are easily accessible by sea or air. Kerama Islands are known best for its excellent outdoor activities such as fishing, snorkeling, hiking, windsurfing and scuba diving given its wonderful lush green hills explorable by car, bicycle or bus where one can immerse in the magnificent ocean views, and extremely calm clear blue beaches suitable for any level of swimmer and constellation gazers. The islands have been retained in much the same way it did centuries ago and remained a peaceful eco-tourism destination due to environmentally protective locals who resisted commercial development. Keramas offers a handful of restaurants and bars to choose from, where one can feast on delicious food and drink, and spend the evenings mingle with the friendly locals accompanied by melodious folk songs.

Located in Maji Naha city, the Shikina-en, the royal family’s largest country retreat garden, was constructed in 1799 as the second residence of the Ryūkyū kings. The “South Garden” as it is also popularly known, played an important role as a gateway to welcome and entertain “Sapposhi” envoys from China. “South Garden” is named to discern Shikina-en from another beautiful royal villa, Uchaya-udun which was called the “East Garden”

Shikina-en garden spans about 39,600 square meters promenades around a pond. Several arched stone bridges linked to picturesque spots around the pond and the “udun” or villa - a pretty hexagonal gazebo styled of a Chinese building called Rokkakudo with its red tile roof stood in the middle of a small islet. The stone bridges are made from Ryūkyū limestone and carry the Ryūkyūan work of art in terms of its piled-stone construction method. The blend of the typical Japanese landscape garden and the distinct Okinawan building and subtropical flora, offers a unique flavour to anyone who visits the haven. The exquisite park was completely ruined during the Okinawa War but in 1975, the Shō family members began restoration and in the following year, Shikina-en garden was designated as a national scenic spot. Naha City took over the restoration and beautification work after the royal heritage was donated to the city in 1992. The upkeeping efforts have not stopped since then. For over 20 years, Naha City had expended 800 million Yen to maintain this historical garden. In 2000, the Shikina-en was enlisted in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites under the collective title “Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryūkyū”

Naha, located in the southern part of the largest and most populous island, the Okinawa Island, is the capital city of Okinawa Prefecture. In the feudal period, Naha is the commercial and administration center of the Ryūkyū Kingdom, and today it is the political, economical and educational center. Americans invasion during the Battle of Okinawa has more or less fused into the rich heritage Okinawa. During the years of US administration for 27 years, the people were in constant contact with another foreign culture and that makes Okinawa’s culture distinctively diversified. Okinawans formed close relations with Asia and the Pacific region, and so provided a wealth of cultural influences.

Okinawa's temperate climate and unique history gave rise to traditional arts and crafts of superb quality in various parts of the prefecture. Thus, in April 1993, the Naha City Arts and Crafts Museum opened its door to showcase the arts and crafts of Naha such as Tsuboya pottery, Ryūkyū lacquerware, Shuri fabrics, Bingata, Ryūkyū Glass and some national living treasures. The museum features standing exhibits ranging from sea-associated life-style and traditions, Ryūkyū Kingdom, outdoor display, post and pre war to the modern Okinawa. Various hands-on activities and exhibits are available in the touch-and-experience room for visitors to pick up and handle, reflect on and study. To those who wish to delve deeper into certain general exhibitions, one may find sub exhibition interesting. Five sub-exhibition rooms categorized under natural history, archeology, arts and craft, history and folk customs are arranged around the main general exhibition area. There is also a museum shop and demonstration studios where video monitors are put in the special exhibit rooms to narrate the production techniques. The standing exhibit hall displays works from studios of currently active artisans and others, and these are available for purchase. In the demonstration studios, visitors can observe the actual making of Ryūkyū Glass, pottery, fabric, Bingata and lacquerware. For a nominal, one can experience among others such as pottery and glass making. In several times a year, special and planned exhibit will be held to show results of research on artifacts and objects not only from Okinawa but around Japan and abroad. With the theme “look • touch • experience Ryūkyū” visitors are guaranteed to shelve memories that can only be gained in Okinawa.

The Ryūkyū Kingdom saga began with the Tenson Dynasty (Dynasty of Heavenly Descent), which was said to have lasted 17,000 years, and ended with three kings of the Shunten lineage. Back in the 14th century, small islands around Okinawa were unified into three principalities known as Sanzan (Three Mountains or Three Kingdoms). Each of these kingdoms – Hokuzan (Northern Mountain), Chūzan (Central Mountain) and Nanzan (Shoutern Mountain) were led by tribal chieftains. Chūzan won the battles that ensued, and was then officially recognized by the Chinese as the ruler of Sanzan. In early 15th century, the ruler of Chūzan passed the throne to King Shō Hashi, uniting island of Okinawa for the first time and began the legendary Shō dynasty.

The Second Shō Dynasty began when Kanamaru as later renamed as Shō En, an attendant to the then demised of the seventh King of First Shō Dynasty, gained Chinese investiture. Ryūkyū's golden age and royal culture started to bloom during the reign of Shō Shin, the second king of that dynasty. Over a period of 3 years from 1492, King Shō Shin built the Enkaku-ji temple, modeled after the Kamakura Enkaku-ji, to enshrine his father, King Shō En. This temple, located inside the Shurijo Park, was the chief temple of Rinzai sect of zen Buddhism and the family temple for kings of the Second Shō Dynasty. Though this site was dedicated as a national treasure in 1933, much of the temple and Shuri Castle was destroyed in one of the fiercest battles in WWII, the battle of Okinawa in 1945. Preservation efforts made the Enkaku-ji Soumon (main gate), the Ekimon (side gate) and Houjyo bridge over the Houjpo ‘lotus pond’ pond still visible today. Resembling many of the traditional village in Ryūkyū, Enkaku-ji Soumon has a red-tile gable roof, supported by eight pillars, and beams which upon closer inspection, reveals the intricate detail of the wood carvings. Thanks to the impressive restoration works, the railings on the Houjyo bridge which were designated as a natural cultural asset in 1972, are a showcase of Okinawan stone sculpture masterpiece that can still be observed today.

{mosimage}The Tomari high Bridge that runs a length of one-kilometer over the Tomari Harbor took twelve years to construct, from 1974 to April 1986, when it was opened for the public. This bridge forms part of the coast road from Naha Port to the Aja New Port and the amazing view needs to be seen to be believed. View of the East China Sea competes with the Kerama Island group in the far off distance.

The rust-red colored railings of the Naminoue Bridge sparkle in the south and a glimpse southbound to the left reveals the beautifully perched Naminoue Shrine at the water’s edge. This view affords picturesque and breathtaking beauty to the viewer. The Wakasa seashore nearby, which boasts of a 200-car parking lot and plenty of space, is a favorite with the fishermen and strollers. Closely located are the Wakasa man-made beach and the Asahigaoka Park, which makes visiting these places most convenient.

Tomari Photos

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{mosimage}Peace Prayer Park (Okinawa Heiwa Kinen Koen), located on and around Mabuni Hill (Hill 89) on the southern portion of Okinawa, Japan, is a large complex dedicated to the memories of those that died during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945. After Okinawa reverted from American to Japanese control in 1972, construction of the park began. The park is at once a destination for visitors and a sacred location for prayer and reflection. It is comprised of four zones: the Peace Zone, the Prayer Area, the Peace Ceremony Zone, and the Recreation Zone.

The Peace Zone
This area is comprised of the Peace Memorial Museum, the Peace Memorial Hall, the Cornerstone of Peace, and the Flame of Peace.

Peace Memorial Museum (Heiwa Kinen Koen no Shiryokan)
Focused largely on the impact of the battle on the lives of Okinawan civilians, the Peace Memorial Museum is intended to teach the public about the horrors of war. Permanent exhibits explain the history of the battle from beginning to end and include audiovisual aids such as films, historical objects, 3-D maps, and even a replica cave. Particularly notable is Room 4, in which audio and written testimonies from battle survivors are displayed. The final exhibit chronicles the post-war occupation and struggle for reversion.

Admission is ¥300 for adults and ¥150 for children. The museum is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (except December 29-January 3).

Peace Memorial Hall (Heiwa Kinendo)
Peace Memorial Hall is best known as the home of the largest lacquered Buddha in Japan. Standing 12 meters high, spanning eight meters across, and comprised of 3.5 tons of lacquer, the Buddha is the magnum opus of renowned Okinawan artist Shinzan Yamada. Prior to World War II, Yamada left Okinawa to study art in Tokyo. Though he returned in 1940 and survived the horrors of the "Typhoon of Steel," he lost two sons during the battle. He constructed the Buddha statue to commemorate the souls of the war dead and espouse hope that such a tragedy would never again occur.

Yamada began constructing the Buddha using tsuikin lacquer techniques in 1957 at the age of 72. The enormous statue took more than 18 years to complete, with work stopping several times due to a lack of funding and twice because Yamada sustained serious injuries in falls from scaffolding. According to literature from the Peace Memorial Hall, the Buddha statue "differs from the usual Buddha in its basic concept. The traditional Buddha is usually placed on a lotus-shaped pedestal, symbolizing the future life, while the pedestal of this non-religious peace statue is decorated with a flower whose six petals represent the six continents. Thus this represents human harmony and world peace."

In the hall, Buddha is surrounded by seven pillars, each representing one of the seven seas. A series of 20 paintings themed "War and Peace" hang on the walls. The paintings took seven years to complete and are the work of Keiyu Nishimura, who wished to "portray the unique culture, the beautiful nature, and the cordiality of Okinawans in contrast to their tragic war experiences." Also in the hall is a small table with paper and acrylic boxes containing hundred of folded cranes. Visitors are invited to fold origami cranes of peace, known as tsuru or orizuru, and place them in the box. On the platform surrounding the Buddha are thousands of cranes and crane collages folded by the children of Okinawa.

Located in a room beneath the hall is the Sacred Stone Chamber. Sacred stones from throughout Japan and the world were collected by Okinawans and placed beneath the statue to act as its foundation.

Outside of the hall on the right is the Peace Bell. Dignitaries toll the bell during peace ceremonies, most notably during Irei no Hi (Day of Remembrance) each year on June 23. Behind the bell is the Peace Monument; when the hall was opened in 1978, organizers collected 1,258 compositions on the subject of peace. The best three are inscribed on the Peace Monument.

Behind the Peace Monument is an art museum that opened in 1981 and houses the works of contemporary Okinawan artists. To the rear of that is the Meditation Forest and a notable bronze statue. When excavation was done for the hall, the bones and shoes of a young boy were found along with three rusty grenades. The statue was placed in the location to console the souls of the children who died during the battle. It also commemorates the tenth anniversary of the reversion of Okinawa to Japan.

Admission to the Peace Memorial Hall is ¥450 for adults, and ¥350 for junior and senior high school students. Group rates are available. The museum is open daily (except December 29-January 3). From April 1 to October 15, hours are 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. From October 16 to March 31, hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The Cornerstone of Peace (Heiwa no Ishiji)
Though its name makes it sound as though it is a singular mass of stone, the Cornerstone of Peace is a series of zig-zag, black granite monuments that stretch across the low area of Peace Prayer Park and are dedicated to those--American, Japanese, and Okinawan military and civilians--who died in the battle. As you stand at the Flame of Peace and walk down the center aisle, the foreign (American, British, Irish) casualties are listed in a small section on the immediate left. The American casualties are divided by their branch of service, though the branches are not listed on the monuments. (Americans familiar with the military bases on Okinawa need only look for the names of the camps. If you see the last name Lester (Camp Lester, a Navy installation and home of the United States Naval Hospital Okinawa), you'll know you're in the Navy section. The name Buckner (Fort Buckner, one of Okinawa's two Army installations and home of the 58th Signal Battalion) will indicate the Army section. Seeing the names Kinser, Foster, Courtney, McTureous, Hansen, Schwab, and Gonsalves (all Marine Congressional Medal of Honor winners from the Battle of Okinawa) will indicate the Marine Corps section.) Names in each service's section are listed A-Z. Okinawan casualties are also located to the left of the center aisle, and the names are organized by village. Japanese casualties are to the right of the center aisle, and those names are broken down by prefecture.

Anchoring the Cornerstone of Peace is the Flame of Peace, which has been burning continuously since June 23, 1995. It was started from other flames of peace throughout Japan, including one from Zamami Village on Aka Island in the Keramas (the first landing place of U.S. forces during the Battle of Okinawa), one from the Light of Peace at Hiroshima, and another from the Flame of Affirmation in Nagasaki.

Many incorrectly assume that Peace Prayer Park is where the Battle of Okinawa ended in June 1945. The many cliffs on this portion of the southern coast are often known as Suicide Cliffs. While Generals Ushijima and Cho did commit ritual suicide in the area, they were only one of a handful who did so. Looking toward the water from the Cornerstone of Peace, there is a cliff face to the left. Some individuals committed suicide by jumping off that cliff. Others jumped at Cape Kyan. The area was not a massive field of suicide.

The Prayer Area
The Prayer Area is composed of the National War Dead Peace Mausoleum and the Memorial Path.

The National War Dead Peace Mausoleum
After World War II, Okinawans began the enormous task of collecting the bodies of their friends and families and cremating them according to local custom. In 1945, the government collected the ashes of the deceased and placed them in the mausoleum on Mabuni Hill. More than 180,000 are at rest there.

Memorial Path
Prefectures throughout Japan have donated monuments to the memories of their soldiers that perished during the Battle of Okinawa. Approximately 50 such memorials line this path.

The Peace Ceremony Zone
This large expanse is used annually on June 23 for Irei no Hi. Thousands flock to the site--Okinawan, Japanese, and American--to honor the lives lost. At noon, a moment of silence is observed across the island. A large granite monument anchors the ritual service area used for these ceremonies.

The Recreation Zone
Peace Prayer Park also contains several multi-purpose recreation fields used for gateball, badminton, and other sports. There are several jogging trails, a picnic grove area, and a children's playground. Every year, this area is the half-way point of the Naha Marathon.

Peace Prayer Park Photos

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{mosimage}The word Yanbaru means "mountains and trees". This word is used to describe the area of northern Okinawa where the rolling hills and covered with dense forests of trees. Between these mountains lay farmland that remains preserved far out of the eye of modern day Okinawa. Beautiful vistas can be seen all throughout Okinawa's northern Yanbaru.

Seen here is a small area of farmland near Okinawa's Nakijin region. In the distance the sun sets over Sesoko island.

Yanbaru Photos

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{mosimage}Sefa Utaki is the most sacred site on Okinawa and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Utaki is a hogen (or Uchinaguchi, the language of the Ryukyus) word that means "a place enshrining the gods." Okinawans believe that gods descend to utaki and individuals can communicate with them there through villages and festivals.

Like most other utaki, Sefa Utaki is located in a forested grove. To those unaware of the site's importance, the area seems like little more than a coral outcropping whose main feature is an unusual triangular passageway formed by a portion of the formation sliding off and landing on its edge. While the date of the foundation of Sefa Utaki is unknown, the Chuzan Seikan (the royal history of the Ryukyu Kingdom) says it was the creation of Amamikyo, the founding god of the Ryukyu Islands.

The entrance of Seifa Utaki is the Ujoguchi. In centuries past, admission past this point was limited to members of the royal government. Ordinary citizens could pray at one of the six incense burners at the entrance, each of which symbolized one of the altars in the utaki. Typically, royal priestesses came to Sefa Utaki most often. Because most of the Ryukyuan deities were female, women have historically been held in high regard. Thus, the sisters and aunts of the king, called kikoe kimi, were enthroned at Seifa Utaki and treated as priestesses.

Past the Ujoguchi is the Yuinchi, which shares its name with the Shuri Castle cooking quarters where servants prepared sacred meals for the king. During the reign of the kingdom, foods such as seafood and produce were brought to those quarters from mainland Japan, China, and other distant locations. The term Yuinchi means "a place full of abundant harvest and catches of fish." Until World War II, a horse-shaped stone was placed at the Yuinchi at Sefa Utaki to tell yearly fortunes. Today, visitors might be able to see visitors praying and chanting at this altar.

When facing the triangular opening of Sefa Utaki, an area called the Kifujinnsama Oyasumidokoro is on the right. Two stalactites hang here, and water dripping from them is considered holy. The water was used to tell the fortunes of the kikoe kimi priestesses as well as the Nakagusuku Udun (king's son). The holy water was also used as an offering during New Year rituals.

Through the triangular opening are several altars, including the Sanguui in front and the Chohana on the right. To the left is an impressive view of Kudaka Island, which was also regarded as sacred among Okinawans. The king of Ryukyu visited this triangular opening at least once a year to pray for a rich harvest.

Sefa Utaki Photos

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{mosimage}Images from the quiet area of Okinawa known as Katsuren. The most traveled part of Katsuren is Katsuren Castle, yet the area surrounding Katsuren Castle is covered in sugarcane farms and beautiful beaches that line the western side of the island of Okinawa. Pictured below is an 80-year-old sugarcane farmer in Katsuren Village.

Katsuren Photos

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{mosimage}Bise is a small area in northern Okinawa best known for it's Fukugi trees that line sandy paths through a village that is hundreds of years old. These trees serve as protection from strong typhoon winds.

Travelers visiting Bise will find this area of Okinawa a quiet, undisturbed area of Okinawa that looks like you have just stepped off the boat on one of the outer islands.

Bise boasts crystal clear waters and a beautiful beachline that has a view of Ie Island in the distance. Snorkelers and spear fisherman can be seen in these waters all year round.

Bise Photos

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