Tsuboya is a district in Naha, Okinawa famed for its collection of potters. Homo sapiens on Okinawa first began using vessels made of earthen materials more than 6,600 years ago. The creation of such vessels changed tremendously, however, when the island began trade with China and Kyushu (the southern portion of mainland Japan) during the 12th century. Okinawa’s trade levels reached new highs in the 16th century (trading with nations as far away as Korea, Vietnam, and Thailand), so local artisans took up the craft of pottery both to supply local markets and to export. Thus, kilns began to appear across the island.

In 1682, the Ryukyu royal government issued a decree that Okinawa Honto’s three pottery districts (Wakuta, Takaraguchi, and Chibana) be consolidated to better provide for the demand of the citizenry and of foreign merchants. In addition items such as bowls, pots, and bottles, crafters also produced large numbers of roof tiles (aka-gawara). The royal government named the area Tsuboya (from tsubo, meaning “pot,” and ya, meaning “specialists”) and presided over the administration of its kilns. During this heyday of yachimun (pottery) production, two types of pottery emerged: joyachi (glazed pottery) and arayachi (unglazed pottery).

After Okinawa came under Japanese control during the Meiji era, porcelain imports from mainland Japan increased exponentially. Because it was sturdier and less expensive, porcelain became more popular and prevalent on Okinawa and the native pottery, and joyachi and arayachi sales declined.

Still, craftsmen continued to take pride in the traditions of production, and the craft survived. As World War II approached and Japanese soldiers began to take over and fortify the island for the upcoming Battle of Okinawa, the Japanese military requisitioned craftsmen to make thousands of bowls, saucers, and battery covers for its troops. The artisans complied, and though much of their work and most of the kilns were destroyed during the war, they returned to their craft during Occupation to make the everyday utensils and items needed for the populace. This return of local goods after the war not only helped the Okinawan population recover by providing much-needed material goods, but also helped it retain its cultural identity and begin the slow process of social and emotional healing.

Several decades after the war, as Naha’s population density increased, some citizens began to protest their annoyance with the large quantities of smoke being belched into the city’s air by the kilns. So, many of the potters moved to Yomitan and built cooperative kilns. But others, whose studios and shops in Tsuboya had been passed down from generation to generation, remained and installed electric kilns that didn’t produce smoky pollutants.

Two of the old kilns are still standing in Tsuboya: Feinu Kama (used to bake arayachi) and Agarinu Kuma (used to bake joyachi). Both were constructed during the 17th century. Today, Tsuboya’s pottery trade centers around Yachimun-dori (Pottery Street), a small street located behind the Heiwadori in Naha. Here, potters have shops filled with beautiful wares that range from small cups and saucers to monstrous shisa. Each spring, a festival is held in Tsuboya to showcase the pottery trade, offer visitors the chance to try their hand at crafting pieces, and encourage guests to purchase pieces. (Vendors discount their wares by as much as 20 percent.)

The Tsuboya Pottery Museum does an excellent job of chronicling the evolution of yachimun and the district’s historic involvement in its production. It is located on Yachimun-dori (near where it intersects with Heiwadori, on the left) and charges a small admission fee.

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written by John , October 10, 2008

Tsuboya is such a beautiful place.

V/r,
John

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Click here to my new blog: Naha Okinawa Japan photographer blog.

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